Monday, May 28 Kathmandu and Bhaktapur

Temple Bells above the Golden Gate at Durbar Square, Bhaktapur

Wood carving detail Bhaktapur

Three areas are on our schedule today: the old city of Bhaktapur, the Hindu temple at Pashupatinath, and the Buddhist stupa at Boudhanath. All three are part of the Kathmandhu Valley UNESCO World Heritage site. Bhaktapur is a city of 80 000 people about 13 km outside of Kathmandu. We walked from the tourist parking lot through red brick built houses. There were strands of garlic hanging from the upper floors. Wheat was laid out on blankets for drying.

Durbar Square is a focal point for interesting architecture. The intricacy of the wood carving is astounding. There is a golden gate that is also fascinating. The king of Bhaktapur lived  on this complex. There is a bathing pool with two huge pillars with Shiva’s snakes adorning the top. There are many Vishnavite temples in the area, some with erotic carvings. These are designed to illustrate the mutual male and female energy of the gods that is a significant part of tantric worship. There is a pottery square where you can see people firing pots. There are numerous Thanka workshops and shops. Also impressive is Taumadi Square which has a tall five-tiered temple, Siddi Laxmi temple.

Shiva shrines at Pashupatinah

Our second stop was the Hindu temple complex at Pashupatinath. There were cremation ghats with a few burnings going on. The river is much smaller than the Ganges. There were cattle in the river below the ghat. Among the series of shrines to shiva were some sadhus. Apparently there are imposters here who are looking to make money from pictures with tourists. We walked by the main temple but were not allowed to go inside. Along this path were a number of beggars who were suffering from Hansen Disease (Leprosy).

The third stop was the huge stupa at Boudhanath. This is the sight that is featured in films such as Little Buddha and calendars. It is a vast circular dome designed as a mandala from above. Surrounding the stupa a dozens of prayer wheels. There are a few very large ones. The area is lined with souvenir shops, Thangka studios and restaurants. We ate lunch in a rooftop restaurant overlooking the stupa.  By late afternoon we returned to the Hotel Shangrila.