Thursday, May 17, 2012

Monday, May 14, Darjeeling

Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Darjeeling. Attached to Loreto Convent
Sr Elizabeth's funeral procession winds down toward the cemetery


St Teresa's students from the hostel pray around Sr. Elizabeth's grave
Buddhist monks in Darjeeling
This was the first regular day of school at North Point and St. Michael’s. Michelle still wasn’t feeling well but managed to make the assembly and a few classes.  She is teaching life sciences. Nicki, also at North Point, is teaching sciences. At St. Michael’s, Jackie has chemistry and math classes, Sarah has history and english and Natalie is supporting the music program.

Sr. Elizabeth’s funeral was held at the Cathedral church attached to Loreto convent.  At 8:30am the open coffin was processed from the convent to the church. For the next hour or so, over a thousand mourners came forward presenting their khadahs, laying them across her body. Fr. Kinley preside with about 35 priests con-celebrating. The singing was beautiful and the service moving. More khadahs were presented for nearly an hour after the mass.

The long procession wound down the steep hill to the Loreto cemetery. The mourners prayed and sang. The procession stopped a couple of times to allow more people to lay khadahs on her coffin. At the grave site, the lid on her coffin was finally nailed shut and then manually, lowered into the ground amid prayers and sobs. Her resting place among the other deceased members of the Loreto community has a beautiful view of the valleys and hills of Darjeeling. Later, students from the hostel came to pray and burn candles at her graveside.

In the afternoon, Les and Jan explored parts of Darjeeling on their own. Sarah and Natalie also went to the market, but had to return after Natalie became ill. Meanwhile, back at North Point, Nicki was also succumbing to illness. Those who were able, joined the young boys gathered for movie night to watch the Three Musketeers.

Sunday, May 13, Darjeeling

Scenes from Darjeeling


After yesterday’s intensity, a more relaxed day was in order. Despite a late night, Jackie and Sarah attended Mass at North Point. “Let it Be” was used as one of the hymns. Sarah travelled up to Loreto Convent to spend some time with her dad and go to Mass again with him, Jan and Jane.

The whole group (sans Michelle) met at the Park Restaurant for lunch. Michelle was still feeling drained and had difficulty eating. Mr. Aloke joined us to make plans for next weekend’s trek as well as an expedition to Tiger Hill.

After lunch, we strolled around upper Darjeeling and had coffee at Café Coffee Day. After some browsing and buying at the market, we made our way back down to return to our residences.

We spent a quiet evening planning lessons, going through the goodnight routine, preparing for Sr. Elizabeth’s funeral tomorrow and chatting.

Saturday, May 12, Darjeeling

Tibetan Refugee Camp

Carding wool
Prayer wheels
Weaving
Himalayan Bear

Red Panda
There was an interesting guest at North Point who stopped by our breakfast table: the brother of Fr. Kinley, making him a prince of the royal family of Bhutan. He invited us to apply for jobs as teachers in Bhutan and gave us a book, Gross NationalHappiness of Bhutan.

The North Point group came to Loreto Convent to say goodbye to Sister Banisha and Lily who were returning to Panigata. Mr. Aloke had arranged for a jeep to take us to the Tibetan Refugee Camp. Many of the older residents were part of the 1959 exodus after the Chinese occupation. We walked around the workshops where the artisans were spinning, dying, weaving, and woodworking. We saw rows of large prayer wheels, large drums that you spin clockwise. They have the Om Mani Padme Hum mantra inscribed on it and in it. The idea of the prayer wheel is that turning the wheel is an act of prayer that is sent out into the world, making it more holy. That is also the idea of the many coloured prayer flags that also have the mantra written on it. The winds take the prayers to make the world more blessed. There is also a photo exhibit which tells the tragic and fascinating story of the Tibetan refugees.

We were then taken to the Himalayan Mountain Institute (HMI) which lies within the zoo. We saw many of the local animal species including leopard, yak, Himalayan wolf, Himalayan bear and red panda. The main exhibit at HMI was overseen by Tenzing Norgay until his death in 1986. It celebrates and chronicles the conquest of Everest in 1953 by Hilary and Norgay. It also displays climbing gear and mementos from various climbing exhibitions.

On returning to Loreto, Jan and Les received terrible news from Jane. Sr. Elizabeth, principal of St. Teresa’s School had died late this morning. She had died from heart failure due to complications from diabetes. Her  body was brought to the community room at the Convent. She was a well loved and a well respected leader. At 52 years old, she had left a considerable legacy. Fr. Santy announced her death at lunch at North Point.
Vistitors prayed, sang hymns, and laid khadahs  (Nepalese scarves)on her body. Her funeral will be held on Monday May 14, the same date as Les’ grandmother and Sarah’s great-grandmother.

The afternoon was free. Some of us walked different parts of the town, sightseeing and shopping. We are settling into the routine of being back at our respective residences by 6 to 7pm and having dinner. At North Point, the bedtime routine with the young ones continues. On this evening, the Loreto group prayed around Sr. Elizabeth’s coffin with the sisters and the students from St. Teresa who stay at a hostel.

Michelle wasn’t feeling well. She was throwing up and feeling quite upset. We eventually persuaded her to go to the local hospital to get checked out. Along with Fr. Santy, Sr. Sabrina and the nurses from North Point and Loreto, Michelle was taken to the hospital. She was discharged at 2am. Quite a day.

Friday, May 11, Darjeeling

Cut flower garden at NorthPoint and the path down to St Michael's
Barber shop where Les got a 30 rupee (6o cent) haircut

The sky was clear this morning, giving us beautiful views across to “the snows” or Kanchenjunga. Sarah, Natalie, and Jackie were met at the front of North Point to be taken down to St. Michael’s. They were paired with their teachers who oriented them to next week’s teaching assignments. After assembly, they spent the rest of the day observing classes. 

Meanwhile at North Point, Michelle and Nicki started their teaching with their host teachers. Les and Jan were given a tour of North Point by Fr. Santy. It is a beautiful facility with Canadian influences:
-St. Joseph’s-North Point has long been supported by Canadian Jesuits.
-The walkways in the quadrangle form a stylized maple leaf.
-Fr. Santy completed his Master’s at the University of Manitoba.
Fr. Van, the last Canadian born Jesuit on staff had coffee with Jan and Les. He is 85 years old and has been part of the school for 60 years.

Sr. Sabrina, Jan and Les also went to Hayden Hall to see the craft shop that featured bags, rugs and other woven goods made by women in the workshop. The brainchild of Fr. Edgar Burns, it started as a place where St. Joseph-North Point students met the poor. Today it has evolved into a centre that includes a medical dispensary, micro-credit program, mother and child health program, after-school tutoring and many other activities. 

After classes, the North Point group negotiated the bedlam of the shuttle taxis to meet up with the rest of the group in the upper market at Chandulal’s store. They showed us beautiful pashminas and exchanged money for us. His email is chandulalarg@yahoo.com After strolling through some other stores, we walked back down to Glenary’s for tea and some baked goods.

Monday, May 14, 2012

Thursday May 10, 2012: Panighata, Darjeeling

Toy train
Kanchenjunga from the road into Darjeeling
St. Joseph's North Point
Nicki in the young boys dorm
With handshakes, hugs and waving hands we said our farewells to Sr. Salina, Sr. Loyola, Sr. Banisha, Lily and our cook, Bellandina. We had presented them with Maple Syrup, books donated by the Aldrovandi family, Les' 25 Questions series and various teaching and play items. Along with Sr. Sabrina, we drove north in two jeeps. The route took us into the Himalayan foothills through Castleton and then Kurseong in a series of hairpin bends. Because the clouds were low, our views were restricted. What we did see was spectacular -- terraced tea plantations, dense forest, fern-covered cliffs and white orchids growing on trees. We also passed a Tazo Tea plantation. Sr. Sabrina told us that there was increasing corporate takeovers of tea plantations. Tazo and Starbucks were among the most active.

We stopped for a break just above Kurseong. By now we were on Highway 55, the main Siliguri-Darjeeling Road. The tracks for the Toy Train follow the road all the way to Darjeeling. We weren't climbing as much now--our road gradually climbed up the side of a long ridge that led to Ghoom. Here we passed a large Buddhist monastery. One of the diesel engines for the Toy Train was in the station. As we drove into the outskirts of Darjeeling, we caught our first glimpse of Kanchenjunga. We were also treated to the original steam Toy Train puffing along the road, heading towards Ghoom.

Darjeeling is a large town that hangs on the side of a steep hill, that plunges over a 1000 metres. Houses are built on top of each other. Roads tend to contour around the ridge. Traffic is a nightmare for drivers and pedestrians. There are a series of well-respected schools here. Perhaps the most-respected is St. Joseph's North Point (see also their school website)where the younger women will be staying. We were greeted by Fr. Shanti. He is a new principal, recently succeeding Fr. Kinley. Fr. Kinley is a legendary figure who was at one time a member of the Bhutanese royal family. He converted to Christianity and later was told by Mother Teresa that he had a vocation to the priesthood. He joined the Jesuits and before too long, became Principal at his alma mater, North Point.

The North Point Group were given a tour of the school including the dorms. Our rooms here are on the lower area facing north. They are dug into a cliff, making things a bit damp. There is, however, a magnificent view of Kanchenjunga from the front. Nicki and Michelle are to teach here while Jackie, Sarah and Natalie will be at St. Michael's.

Jan, Jane and Les were driven to Loreto Convent. it was established in 1847 but it has numerous additions. Mother Teresa stayed here and taught in the Loreto schools in the 1940's and early 1950's before she received her call to work more directly with poor while on the Toy Train. Sr. Teresa welcomed us to Loreto. After being here for decades, she has been called to Rome to serve as secretary to the Loreto Sisters. We were also warmly welcomed by Sr. Geraldine, Principal of Loreto School and Sister Elizabeth, principal of St. Teresa's school. Sr. Catherine who will be celebrating 60 years as a Loreto Sister in a couple of weeks showed us to our rooms. We have rooms on the upper floor of the convent.

The North Point group had reunited with the rest of the group at Loreto Convent for a treat. The Loreto Convent school was putting on a performance of "Thank You for the Music", a school version of Mamma Mia. The dancing and the choir were particularly excellent.

We gathered for a debrief of our week at Panighata. Despite the challenges (heat, mosquitoes, confusion over teaching expectations, huge classes) it was also very rewarding. The group recommended that the experience recur in future years but it was also thought that twinning teachers would be more beneficial than dropping into different classes.

The North Point group was shown how to negotiate the taxi shuttle service that operates between the Loreto gates and North Point gates. It costs 60 rupees for the trip ($1.20)

At North Point, the younger children sang songs to the volunteers and talked with them in small groups. This bed-time routine was a delightful experience.

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Wednesday May 9 Panighata

Natalie and Jane with marigold and rice tilak
Jan, Sarah, Nicki and Jackie
We are entertained!
Jackie, Michelle and Nicki
Panigata students
Panigata students
Panigata students


This was our last full day in Panighata. Things started of with a bang; a terrific thunderstorm took out the power. It wasn't restored until early afternoon. We continue to teach our classes: sometimes we come back elated after really connecting with the students, other times we feel deflated because the lesson didn't work as well as we had hoped.

In the afternoon, the school held a farewell concert for us. We were escorted in with dancing from the tribal lands. The Nepalese students presented us with a scarf and placed a rice tilak on our foreheads. After the school sang us a welcome song, a series of musical, dance and comedy acts followed. We were invited up to the stage where we regaled our enthusiastic audience with "There was a Bear" and "The Banana Song". The show concluded with Natalie and the school rock group belting out "Summer of '69". We continue to be moved by the warmth of the students and staff of the school.

Les, Jan and Michelle walked to the Loreto Sisters house to use the internet. On leaving, we met up with Natalie, Nicki, Jackie and Sarah accompanied by Manoush and company who were taking us on the long promised walk to the "Jungle". On the way to the forest, we saw quite a few monkeys. The main feature of the walk was a steep climb. There was a spectacular view over the forest to Panighata and the Balasom River.  A few mosquito bites later were back into the village, reaching the school as the sun set. Jane continues to fight a nasty cough but Les is just about recovered from his. We are looking forward to cool, mosquito free Darjeeling tomorrow.

Monday, May 7 & Tuesday May 8 Panighatta

Marching

Praying

Making cards and bags at the income generating project

Jan talking to Wasim who oversees the project here


We are settling into the routine of teaching. When teachers are present, classes are going well. When we are on our own without the host teacher, class control gets challenging, particularly later in the day in the larger classes. Level 5 has 58 students...they can be quite a handful! The temperature and humidity doesn't help. Sleeping is difficult and a few of us have mosquito bites.

After school, some of us visited an income generating project for youth. There are a few of them scattered around the Siliguri, Bagdogra area. They are making gift cards and bags for sale. Some of us helped by showing the the youth some new designs.

It is the final week before a month-long summer break. It is very hot (39 degrees) and students are restless. Sarah and Jan entertained Level 5's in the afternoon with circle games and cricket.

In the evening, Sr. Jane arranged to take Sr. Sarina, Sr. Loyola, Sr. Banisha and Lily to a restaurant in Bagdogra. We experience air conditioning for the first time in a week. A lovely dinner was rudely interrupted by a pair of fighting lizards dropping on Michelle.