Wednesday, May 30, Pokhara

Early morning boat ride in Pokhara

International Peace Pagoda, Pokhara

Terraced fields from the International Peace Pagoda

Devis Falls

Lake Phewa at dawn by rowboat was the first stop on today’s agenda. We were supposed to see the mountains as the sun rose. Unfortunately there was a heavy haze which restricted both views. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful and tranquil morning. A flock of egrets wheeled around a roosting spot on the far shore. Fish plopped onto the surface in search of flies. Increasingly paler ridges of foothills disappeared into the western sky. The sun finally made a tentative appearance behind heavy cloud. The expedition finished with a brief expedition to a Hindu temple on an island across from the boat moorings.

After breakfast, we drove up an incredibly windy, steep, precipitous and stony road to the International Peace Pagoda. As Sarah remarked, such is the path to peace.  The final few hundred feet were climbed up a series of steps. This is one of many such pagodas around the world. The stupa features four statues of the Sakyamuni Buddha: Birth, Enlightenment, Teaching at Sarnath, and Paranivana. 

We stopped briefly at a Tibetan Refugee Camp that was quite similar to the one we visited in Darjeeling. It featured beautiful hand-woven carpets. The last stop was the Devi’s Falls. Pokhara sits on soft cretaceous rock and is prone to sink-holes. A tributary of the Seti River has carved a dramatic gorge and waterfall through the rock in the southern part of town. The falls were named after a woman who died after falling into the torrent. 

In the evening, there was a dramatic thunderstorm which hopefully would clear the air so we could see the Himalaya high peaks tomorrow, our last day in Pokhara.

Tuesday, May 29 Kathmandu and Pokhara

Leaving Kathmandu for Pokhara

Powder Puff or Calliandra haematocephala in the Hotel Barahai gardens

We caught a short 35 minute flight to Pokhara via Yeti Airlines. There were glimpses of the Annapurna Range just before we landed but that’s all we saw of the high peaks today. After checking in at the beautiful Hotel Barahi we were taken to the International Mountain Museum where there were interesting displays of mountain life, expeditions, and natural history. There was also a Buddhist prayer room.

In the afternoon we walked through the tourist part of Pokhara called Lakeside. Pokhara is beautifully set in the Himalayan foothills alongside Lake Phewa It is the second largest city in Nepal and is booming, largely because of tourism.


When Nicki and Natalie visited Pokhara they also were  led on a grimy but interesting exploration of the bat caves.

Monday, May 28 Kathmandu and Bhaktapur

Temple Bells above the Golden Gate at Durbar Square, Bhaktapur

Wood carving detail Bhaktapur

Three areas are on our schedule today: the old city of Bhaktapur, the Hindu temple at Pashupatinath, and the Buddhist stupa at Boudhanath. All three are part of the Kathmandhu Valley UNESCO World Heritage site. Bhaktapur is a city of 80 000 people about 13 km outside of Kathmandu. We walked from the tourist parking lot through red brick built houses. There were strands of garlic hanging from the upper floors. Wheat was laid out on blankets for drying.

Durbar Square is a focal point for interesting architecture. The intricacy of the wood carving is astounding. There is a golden gate that is also fascinating. The king of Bhaktapur lived  on this complex. There is a bathing pool with two huge pillars with Shiva’s snakes adorning the top. There are many Vishnavite temples in the area, some with erotic carvings. These are designed to illustrate the mutual male and female energy of the gods that is a significant part of tantric worship. There is a pottery square where you can see people firing pots. There are numerous Thanka workshops and shops. Also impressive is Taumadi Square which has a tall five-tiered temple, Siddi Laxmi temple.

Shiva shrines at Pashupatinah

Our second stop was the Hindu temple complex at Pashupatinath. There were cremation ghats with a few burnings going on. The river is much smaller than the Ganges. There were cattle in the river below the ghat. Among the series of shrines to shiva were some sadhus. Apparently there are imposters here who are looking to make money from pictures with tourists. We walked by the main temple but were not allowed to go inside. Along this path were a number of beggars who were suffering from Hansen Disease (Leprosy).

The third stop was the huge stupa at Boudhanath. This is the sight that is featured in films such as Little Buddha and calendars. It is a vast circular dome designed as a mandala from above. Surrounding the stupa a dozens of prayer wheels. There are a few very large ones. The area is lined with souvenir shops, Thangka studios and restaurants. We ate lunch in a rooftop restaurant overlooking the stupa.  By late afternoon we returned to the Hotel Shangrila.

Saturday, May 26 and Sunday, May 27, 2012

The group at Varanasi said farewell to the Sahi River Guest House and made our way to the airport. Despite having the longest security clearance we had experienced, we left for Kathmandu without difficulty. As the plane approached Nepal, we were able to see the mountains above the ground haze. Les and Sarah checked into the Shangri-la Hotel while Natalie and Nicki stayed closer to Thamel at the Hotel Silver Home. They explored Thamel before meeting up with Les and Sarah for Vietnamese food for dinner near the Shangri-La.  Natalie and Nicki are going to the same places and Les and Sarah and perhaps a bit more. Unless otherwise stated the rest of the blog will be written from Les’ and Sarah’s perspectives, at least until we meet to update the blog.

Sarah was ill, running a 103 degree fever with stomach pains. Visits by the house doctor and a trip to the clinic on Sunday gave her the correct medications. She layed low on Sunday. Les walked around the area in the afternoon. Kathmandu is calmer and more organized than Kolkata and Varanasi, at least to western eyes. Most people wear western-style clothing, most of traffic rules are obeyed and there’s less noise.  

Friday May 25, Varanasi, Sarnath, (Delhi)

Mulagandhakuti Vihara, Sarnath 

Prayer flags

This morning’s destination is Sarnath, the site of the Buddha’s first sermon in the Deer Park after his enlightenment at Bodh Gaya. Here he talked about the nature of existence, the Four Noble Truths, and the Eightfold Path.

The Mulagandhakuti Vihara has wonderful frescoes depicting the life of the Buddha. Nearby, there is a 1500 old stupa marking the believed site of the first sermon. We had intended to visit a Deer Park and archeological museum, however, both were closed today.

We were taken to the magnificent Kagyu Tibetan monastery. Boy monks were playing before lessons. The temple itself has a wonderful series of mandalas, including the Dhammachackra.

It was time for Jan, Jackie, and Michelle to head off for Delhi. Before heading home on Sunday, they would be visiting the Taj Mahal on Saturday. We hugged our farewells and then went on our separate ways.

In the evening Sarah, Natalie, Nicki and Les ventured towards old Varanasi. The heat, crowds and noise were intense. We beat a retreat to Broadway restaurant for dinner.  It was time for us to pack up at our hotel in preparation for our next step of our journey.

Thursday May 24, Varanasi

Heading down the Ganges at 5:00 am

Orange fire from the burning ghats reflecting in the water. Jan and Michelle

Nicki on the Ganges

Aarthi

We wake before dawn to be taken down the river in a row boat. The early morning Ganges is the epitome of serenity. We see early morning bathers as well as those doing their morning ablutions. There are dozens of ghats—sets of steps running down to the water’s edge. They are usually associated with a temple, crematorium or a fort. We leave from Assi Ghat, the southernmost ghat. We also see people washing their clothes by slapping them against rocks on the riverside. Yogins practice their various stretches and strengthening techniques. Many pray in and beside the water.

A few of the ghats are prepared for cremations. There are stacks of logs and brush ready to be placed along the river. Bodies are placed on the logs and then amid prayers and chants. Then they are set on fire. After the site is reduced to ashes, they are placed into the Ganges. Devout Hindus believe that if they die and ashes placed in the Ganges, their sins are literally washed away. The Ganges (locally called Ganga) is a god who purifies. There is a quite beautiful story about how the Ganges River came down to earth from heaven.

After breakfast, a guide takes us to some of Varanasi’s significant temples. We are first taken to the new Golden Temple (new Vishwanath temple) on the campus of Banares Hindu University (BHU), the largest university campus in Asia. The temple has several shrines but most of the space is open area used for people to pray, talk, study or rest. There are wonderful sayings on the wall from the Bhagavad Gita, other parts of the Mahabharata, Ramayana, the Vedas, Upanishads, Puranas and the Dhammapada.

Our next stop is  the Monkey Temple, more properly known as the Sankat Mochan temple. It is dedicated to Hanuman, the brave monkey-god hero of the Ramayana. Here you can pray before an image of Hanuman for to relieve your troubles. Upon entering the grounds, you pass through an avenue where dozens of monkeys frolic among the trees and fences of the compound.

The third temple is dedicated to the writer of the Hindi version of the Ramayana, Tulsi, who lived here while compiling this text. The entire text is inscribed on the walls of the temple.

The fourth temple is in old Varanasi; it is the old Golden Temple or Kashi Viswinath Temple, so called because of the vast amounts of gold on its dome. It is, perhaps, the most sacred of all the Varanesi temples. There is a tremendous crush of worshippers in narrow, alley-like streets. The security is tight because of conflict between extreme Hindus and Muslims. The crowds and demand for our passports defeat us. We settle for a close view of the dome from some steps in the alley.

The 44 degree temperature makes venturing out this afternoon difficult. Nevertheless, Sarah and Jan explore the ghats and some of the market areas away from the river. They encounter silk merchants, cows swimming in the Ganges, kids playing Ludo, and snake charmers.

In the evening we take to the river again. We accidentally row over a corpse in the river. The poor want a Ganges burial, but can’t afford the cremation fees at the ghats, so they place the dead in the river. Some other people such as the most holy and pregnant women are also placed into the river without cremation. We glide past the funeral pyres as dusk settles and dozens of bats zip around our heads. We moor alongside dozens of other boats to watch a worship ritual. Five men use bells, smoke and fire in a highly symbollic ritual called Ganga aarathi.

Varanasi, once called Kashi and then Benares, is one of the oldest cities in the world. Some Hindus believe that the city was founded by Shiva as a peaceful place for him to pray. Shiva’s dance at the end of time will take place here.

Wednesday, May 23 Delhi, Varanasi

Ganges at Asi Ghat, Varanasi

The area near the Delhi Hotel in Karol Bargh is a curious mix. It has a few hotels, hospitals, and car suplly shops. Our return tothe airport was much more straightforward than yesterday's adventure. The airport featured shops such as WH Smith, Marks and Spensers and the Body Shop.

As the plane descended into Varanasi, the pilot told us that the ground temperature was 44 degrees. At the terminal we negotiated our way through a flurry of porters and drivers to our cabs into the city. It was very hot, congested and dusty. As has been the pattern, our drivers found the hotel after a few false turns and requests for directions. The entrance to the Sahi River Guest House is not auspicious: you go along the ghat, turn up an alley, then through a side alley, up a couple of flights of stairs to the lobby of the hotel. The Sahi River View Guest House does indeed have a beautiful view of the Ganges. We ate at a pizzeria east of the hotel to make plans for the next day.

Tuesday, May 22 Siliguri, Bagdogra, Delhi

After breakfast, we gathered for our last group reflection. Jane was staying here in Siliguri and would meet up with Jan, Michelle and Jackie on Sunday morning for their last flight home. At the gathering we expressed our gratitude for the wonderful learning experiences and shared some ideas for future trips. Mr. Aloke, Jane and Sr. Sabrina accompanied us to the airport where we said our goodbyes.

Delhi airport is very impressive--as good as any most of us had seen. We found our way to the pre-paid taxis and negotiated our price (350 rupees or $7) for each of the two cabs. The trip to the Hotel Metro Heights in Karol Bargh was an adventure. The heat in Delhi (41 degrees) was very challenging. even with the windows open the cabs (no A/C) felt like blast furnaces. The cab driver for Nicki, Jackie and Les drove 200 metres the wrong way on a divided highway to get to a propane gas filling station. We were asked to leave the cab while he refueled. With visions of the driver escaping with our luggage, we maneuvered into a position where we could block his way. Fortunately, our suspicions were unfounded.

Both drivers had difficulty finding the hotel and had to stop for directions several times. Our rooms were comfortable with A/C and good showers. We ate a rather insipid meal in the hotel restaurant. 

Monday, May 21 Darjeeling, Mirick, Siliguri

Chowrasta, Darjeeling

Looking up the Balason River valley

This morning was our last time to shop and say our farewells in Darjeeling. There was a heavy police presence because of an anticipated political protest. It was the second anniversary of a murder that had political overtones. many of the people of Darjeeling area are looking for more political autonomy. The government of West Bengal, which administers this area south to Kolkata is dominated by Bengalis whose culture, language and concerns are different from the Nepalis who are in the majority here. The separatist movement is looking for a separate jurisdiction called Gorkhaland. There were speakers in the area close to the assassination, but there was no trouble that we heard of.

We left in the early afternoon south to the Mary Ward Centre in Siliguri. Our two jeeps crawled through the Darjeeling traffic to Ghoum and then southwest towards Mirick. The winding road fell gently through groves of magnificent evergreens and tea plantations. Our views were obscured by low cloud, fog and then rain.

As we approached Mirick, we passed alongside the Nepalese border. The road wound down through tea plantations as the rain intensified. Mirick has one of the areas few lakes and a pink hospital! We had a short stop for tea here.

The final part of the road was a steeper drop to the plains. The clouds had lifted, giving us views up the Balason River valley. Our route took us very close to Panighata and then east beside the park we had visited two weeks earlier. By the time we arrived at the Mary Ward Centre it was dark. Sr. Monica and Sr. Sabrina were there to welcome us.

The Mary Ward Resource Centre is a relatively new facility devoted to helping the needy in the area. They promote safe migration to thwart human traffickers. Young women are particularly prone. They or their families will succumb to false offers of employment as nannies or family domestic help only to be sold into prostitution in various parts of Asia. The Centre also helps tea garden families and others break the cycle of poverty. Education is a major tool in their work.

Saturday, May 19 and Sunday, May 20, Darjeeling, Ghoum, Kurseong

Buddha in Ghoum temple

Michelle and Natalie hiking

Map showing the ridge south from Darjeeling to Ghoom to Kurseong

Mr. Aloke picked us up at Loreto at 9am to start our track. Les and Jane were not able to join us. Today's trek took us through woodlands, villages and tea gardens southward from Ghoum. It was cloudy but rainless. After a lunch stop, we continued south through the scenic countryside. The jeep picked us up and took us to a nice hotel in Kurseong where there was even TV in our rooms -- such luxury!

Sunday's hike was more strenuous as we walked over steeper ground under sunny skies. Some of us had sunburns by time we finished the trek. On our way home, we visited a Buddhist monastery in Ghoum. They had a giant, imposing statue of  Maitreya Buddha. The hollow insides are said to contain thousands of pieces of paper on which are written the Om Mane Padme Om mantra. By the time we arrived back at Loreto Convent, we were exhausted. Nevertheless, Nicki went up intoi town to meet up with her friend Beth who was also travelling India. The rest of us had a quiet dinner with the sisters.

Friday, May 18 Darjeeling

Loreto Senior students marching before school

A grateful student saying goodbye to Sarah

Rangoli/Aplana

Creative Salads

Jan made the expedition down the steep paths to the porters’ houses with one of the social workers affiliated with Loreto Convent. Because of congested, steep narrow roads, many of the goods in Darjeeling are transported manually by these porters. Many of these are Nepali refugees who live in woeful conditions in a camp at the bottom of town.

In the afternoon Jan, Jane and Les went to St. Michael’s for a farewell special assembly. It was an opportunity for us to meet the students and for the school to formally say goodbye to Sarah, Jackie and Natalie. Nicki had also come down from North Point to join in. There were two competitions that were being held, a Rangoli/Aplana display and a Salad making Competition. There was an explanatory flyer about Rangoli:

Art gives birth to beauty and beauty gives pleasure. Rangoli is an art form. It goes back to the Aryans who used it on auspicious occasions and during prayer ceremonies. Rangoli is also mentioned in the Puranas and Ramayana.

It is believed that Rangoli brings prosperity to people and keeps them safe from harm. The dots in Rangoli represent seeds, which is a symbol of growth.

As we bid adieu to spring season, the season of colours and the king of seasons, we take great pride in drawing these designs.

We were presented with Thangkas, a friendship bracelet and a bag of gifts (tea, pen & key chain, hayden Hall woven bag, and another Darjeeling bracelet) Jane officially opened the competition and lit an  8-wicked candle. We then inspected all the Rangoli/Aplana designs. These were Mandala-like creations made from coloured sand and rice. Students stood by their creation as we visitors and judges inspected the works. Also being presented were wonderfully displayed salads.

Traffic is a real problem here in Darjeeling. Narrow roads, landslides, increased cars contribute to terrible congestion. Jane and Les took a shuttle cab from North Point to Loreto, about 2 km distant. Jan walked and arrived well before the others. Les and Jane eventually gave up on the cab and walked the last few hundred metres. 

The taxi shuttles are cheap transportation. They usually crowd six passengers into the seats. These aren’t wide vehicles: they are about the width of a compact car. Of the four sitting in the backseat, at least one person is squatting or on the edge of a seat. Numb bums are the order of the day. On the downhill stretch toNorth point, the engine is switched off for most of the way to save petrol. On some of the other longer haul taxis, we have seen many ride on top of the vehicles.

The group was finally reunited at Loreto Convent around 5pm. A quick shopping spree in the market was in order before 7pm dinner. It was Sr. Teresa’s birthday and she was appropriately celebrated.

Thursday, May 17 Darjeeling

Students at assembly at Loreto school

Darjeeling Mosque. We hear the call to prayer at 4am every day

It was Les and Jane’s turn to be ill today. Jane was throwing up during the night while Les’ chest cold laid him low. Jan went to mass for the second anniversary of Fr. Burns’ death. In the afternoon she ventured down the hill where she encountered people carrying water in large containers down to the stream. Upstream, there was garbage and other refuse in the water. This water was undoubtedly contaminated. Water is in short supply here because of the inadequate infrastructure. Darjeeling is on a ridge and there is no natural reservoir. We are told that there is water mafia that controls much of the water supply here. Fortunately this year has had a fair amount of rain, so there is no drought. Nevertheless, poorer people must trek down the hill to fill up on contaminated water and lug it back up the hill.

The North Point group were all invited for a steep walk down to visit the homes of several St. Michael’s students who live on a near by tea plantation. As they followed the students to their homes they learned that many of them walk for over two hours each way to go to school.  The hospitality of the students and their families was overwhelming. The students were so excited to have Canadian visitors in their homes and introduce them to their families. The girls were welcomed into the homes of eight students, and shared many cups of tea and Coca-Cola, as well as biscuits. They were also given copious amounts of tea leaves from each of the families.. We made it back to North Point barely in time for dinner after a packed, incredibly rewarding afternoon. 

Wednesday May 16, Darjeeling

Plants at Lloyd Botanical Gardens

Porter carrying a load up towards the market

Nurses with traditional uniform and cap in the medical area

By Wednesday, Nicki and Natalie were well enough to return to teaching. Sarah, on the other hand, tried  but her attempt bended with her decorating the inside of the staff room trash can with the contents of her stomach. She retreated to North Point but managed to make it to Glenary's for dinner with the whole group.

As for the Loreto group, Jan returned to Hayden Hall, Jane did some administrative work, and Les explored Lloyd's Botanical Gardens. In the market, there are a number of Buddhist and Hindu artifacts for sale in the market. There are singing bowls, dorjes or vajras,  and bells (ghantas). There are also hand-painted thangkas which are mandalas painted on cloth.

Both groups joined for dinner at Glenary's but Sarah felt ill again and was taken back to Loreto by her dad.

Tuesday, May 15, Darjeeling

Loreto Convent and azaleas

Busy market in Darjeeling

Nicki and Natalie had a rough night, throwing up and feeling feverish. They didn’t make it to class on Tuesday. Michelle seems to be recovering nicely and Sarah and Jackie are still healthy.  Jane is just about over her cough but Les is still fighting some sort of bronchial problem. 

Jan went to Hayden Hall today work with the young students in a daycare program. Hayden Hall serves the destitute of Darjeeling. She helped with their lessons but conditions here are challenging. Some of the youngest are not toilet trained and don’t wear diapers, so it gets messy. They have a cloth pinned to their shirts or around their necks that serves as handkerchief and bib.

Les and Jane visited North Point to have lunch with Fr. Santy and meet Michelle, Nicki and Natalie. Later Jane, Les and Fr. Santy had a discussion about the opportunities and challenges of having our group stationed at North Point. Jane and Les then visited with Nicki, Natalie and Michelle in their quarters.

In the afternoon, Jane and Les visited with Jackie at St. Michael’s They are having a great time teaching in the school—the atmosphere is so welcoming. Sr. Edel Rai, the principal, invited us back for  a concert on Friday.

Monday, May 14, Darjeeling

Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Darjeeling. Attached to Loreto Convent

Sr Elizabeth's funeral procession winds down toward the cemetery

St Teresa's students from the hostel pray around Sr. Elizabeth's grave

Buddhist monks in Darjeeling

This was the first regular day of school at North Point and St. Michael’s. Michelle still wasn’t feeling well but managed to make the assembly and a few classes.  She is teaching life sciences. Nicki, also at North Point, is teaching sciences. At St. Michael’s, Jackie has chemistry and math classes, Sarah has history and english and Natalie is supporting the music program.

Sr. Elizabeth’s funeral was held at the Cathedral church attached to Loreto convent.  At 8:30am the open coffin was processed from the convent to the church. For the next hour or so, over a thousand mourners came forward presenting their khadahs, laying them across her body. Fr. Kinley preside with about 35 priests con-celebrating. The singing was beautiful and the service moving. More khadahs were presented for nearly an hour after the mass.

The long procession wound down the steep hill to the Loreto cemetery. The mourners prayed and sang. The procession stopped a couple of times to allow more people to lay khadahs on her coffin. At the grave site, the lid on her coffin was finally nailed shut and then manually, lowered into the ground amid prayers and sobs. Her resting place among the other deceased members of the Loreto community has a beautiful view of the valleys and hills of Darjeeling. Later, students from the hostel came to pray and burn candles at her graveside.

In the afternoon, Les and Jan explored parts of Darjeeling on their own. Sarah and Natalie also went to the market, but had to return after Natalie became ill. Meanwhile, back at North Point, Nicki was also succumbing to illness. Those who were able, joined the young boys gathered for movie night to watch the Three Musketeers.

Sunday, May 13, Darjeeling

Scenes from Darjeeling

After yesterday’s intensity, a more relaxed day was in order. Despite a late night, Jackie and Sarah attended Mass at North Point. “Let it Be” was used as one of the hymns. Sarah travelled up to Loreto Convent to spend some time with her dad and go to Mass again with him, Jan and Jane.

The whole group (sans Michelle) met at the Park Restaurant for lunch. Michelle was still feeling drained and had difficulty eating. Mr. Aloke joined us to make plans for next weekend’s trek as well as an expedition to Tiger Hill.

After lunch, we strolled around upper Darjeeling and had coffee at Café Coffee Day. After some browsing and buying at the market, we made our way back down to return to our residences.

We spent a quiet evening planning lessons, going through the goodnight routine, preparing for Sr. Elizabeth’s funeral tomorrow and chatting.

Saturday, May 12, Darjeeling

Tibetan Refugee Camp

Carding wool

Prayer wheels

Weaving

Himalayan Bear

Red Panda

There was an interesting guest at North Point who stopped by our breakfast table: the brother of Fr. Kinley, making him a prince of the royal family of Bhutan. He invited us to apply for jobs as teachers in Bhutan and gave us a book, Gross NationalHappiness of Bhutan.

The North Point group came to Loreto Convent to say goodbye to Sister Banisha and Lily who were returning to Panigata. Mr. Aloke had arranged for a jeep to take us to the Tibetan Refugee Camp. Many of the older residents were part of the 1959 exodus after the Chinese occupation. We walked around the workshops where the artisans were spinning, dying, weaving, and woodworking. We saw rows of large prayer wheels, large drums that you spin clockwise. They have the Om Mani Padme Hum mantra inscribed on it and in it. The idea of the prayer wheel is that turning the wheel is an act of prayer that is sent out into the world, making it more holy. That is also the idea of the many coloured prayer flags that also have the mantra written on it. The winds take the prayers to make the world more blessed. There is also a photo exhibit which tells the tragic and fascinating story of the Tibetan refugees.

We were then taken to the Himalayan Mountain Institute (HMI) which lies within the zoo. We saw many of the local animal species including leopard, yak, Himalayan wolf, Himalayan bear and red panda. The main exhibit at HMI was overseen by Tenzing Norgay until his death in 1986. It celebrates and chronicles the conquest of Everest in 1953 by Hilary and Norgay. It also displays climbing gear and mementos from various climbing exhibitions.

On returning to Loreto, Jan and Les received terrible news from Jane. Sr. Elizabeth, principal of St. Teresa’s School had died late this morning. She had died from heart failure due to complications from diabetes. Her  body was brought to the community room at the Convent. She was a well loved and a well respected leader. At 52 years old, she had left a considerable legacy. Fr. Santy announced her death at lunch at North Point.

Vistitors prayed, sang hymns, and laid khadahs  (Nepalese scarves)on her body. Her funeral will be held on Monday May 14, the same date as Les’ grandmother and Sarah’s great-grandmother.

The afternoon was free. Some of us walked different parts of the town, sightseeing and shopping. We are settling into the routine of being back at our respective residences by 6 to 7pm and having dinner. At North Point, the bedtime routine with the young ones continues. On this evening, the Loreto group prayed around Sr. Elizabeth’s coffin with the sisters and the students from St. Teresa who stay at a hostel.

Michelle wasn’t feeling well. She was throwing up and feeling quite upset. We eventually persuaded her to go to the local hospital to get checked out. Along with Fr. Santy, Sr. Sabrina and the nurses from North Point and Loreto, Michelle was taken to the hospital. She was discharged at 2am. Quite a day.

Friday, May 11, Darjeeling

Cut flower garden at NorthPoint and the path down to St Michael's

Barber shop where Les got a 30 rupee (6o cent) haircut

The sky was clear this morning, giving us beautiful views across to “the snows” or Kanchenjunga. Sarah, Natalie, and Jackie were met at the front of North Point to be taken down to St. Michael’s. They were paired with their teachers who oriented them to next week’s teaching assignments. After assembly, they spent the rest of the day observing classes. 

Meanwhile at North Point, Michelle and Nicki started their teaching with their host teachers. Les and Jan were given a tour of North Point by Fr. Santy. It is a beautiful facility with Canadian influences:

-St. Joseph’s-North Point has long been supported by Canadian Jesuits.

-The walkways in the quadrangle form a stylized maple leaf.

-Fr. Santy completed his Master’s at the University of Manitoba.

Fr. Van, the last Canadian born Jesuit on staff had coffee with Jan and Les. He is 85 years old and has been part of the school for 60 years.

Sr. Sabrina, Jan and Les also went to Hayden Hall to see the craft shop that featured bags, rugs and other woven goods made by women in the workshop. The brainchild of Fr. Edgar Burns, it started as a place where St. Joseph-North Point students met the poor. Today it has evolved into a centre that includes a medical dispensary, micro-credit program, mother and child health program, after-school tutoring and many other activities. 

After classes, the North Point group negotiated the bedlam of the shuttle taxis to meet up with the rest of the group in the upper market at Chandulal’s store. They showed us beautiful pashminas and exchanged money for us. His email is chandulalarg@yahoo.com After strolling through some other stores, we walked back down to Glenary’s for tea and some baked goods.

Thursday May 10, 2012: Panighata, Darjeeling

Toy train

Kanchenjunga from the road into Darjeeling

St. Joseph's North Point

Nicki in the young boys dorm

With handshakes, hugs and waving hands we said our farewells to Sr. Salina, Sr. Loyola, Sr. Banisha, Lily and our cook, Bellandina. We had presented them with Maple Syrup, books donated by the Aldrovandi family, Les' 25 Questions series and various teaching and play items. Along with Sr. Sabrina, we drove north in two jeeps. The route took us into the Himalayan foothills through Castleton and then Kurseong in a series of hairpin bends. Because the clouds were low, our views were restricted. What we did see was spectacular -- terraced tea plantations, dense forest, fern-covered cliffs and white orchids growing on trees. We also passed a Tazo Tea plantation. Sr. Sabrina told us that there was increasing corporate takeovers of tea plantations. Tazo and Starbucks were among the most active.

We stopped for a break just above Kurseong. By now we were on Highway 55, the main Siliguri-Darjeeling Road. The tracks for the Toy Train follow the road all the way to Darjeeling. We weren't climbing as much now--our road gradually climbed up the side of a long ridge that led to Ghoom. Here we passed a large Buddhist monastery. One of the diesel engines for the Toy Train was in the station. As we drove into the outskirts of Darjeeling, we caught our first glimpse of Kanchenjunga. We were also treated to the original steam Toy Train puffing along the road, heading towards Ghoom.

Darjeeling is a large town that hangs on the side of a steep hill, that plunges over a 1000 metres. Houses are built on top of each other. Roads tend to contour around the ridge. Traffic is a nightmare for drivers and pedestrians. There are a series of well-respected schools here. Perhaps the most-respected is St. Joseph's North Point (see also their school website)where the younger women will be staying. We were greeted by Fr. Shanti. He is a new principal, recently succeeding Fr. Kinley. Fr. Kinley is a legendary figure who was at one time a member of the Bhutanese royal family. He converted to Christianity and later was told by Mother Teresa that he had a vocation to the priesthood. He joined the Jesuits and before too long, became Principal at his alma mater, North Point.

The North Point Group were given a tour of the school including the dorms. Our rooms here are on the lower area facing north. They are dug into a cliff, making things a bit damp. There is, however, a magnificent view of Kanchenjunga from the front. Nicki and Michelle are to teach here while Jackie, Sarah and Natalie will be at St. Michael's.

Jan, Jane and Les were driven to Loreto Convent. it was established in 1847 but it has numerous additions. Mother Teresa stayed here and taught in the Loreto schools in the 1940's and early 1950's before she received her call to work more directly with poor while on the Toy Train. Sr. Teresa welcomed us to Loreto. After being here for decades, she has been called to Rome to serve as secretary to the Loreto Sisters. We were also warmly welcomed by Sr. Geraldine, Principal of Loreto School and Sister Elizabeth, principal of St. Teresa's school. Sr. Catherine who will be celebrating 60 years as a Loreto Sister in a couple of weeks showed us to our rooms. We have rooms on the upper floor of the convent.

The North Point group had reunited with the rest of the group at Loreto Convent for a treat. The Loreto Convent school was putting on a performance of "Thank You for the Music", a school version of Mamma Mia. The dancing and the choir were particularly excellent.

We gathered for a debrief of our week at Panighata. Despite the challenges (heat, mosquitoes, confusion over teaching expectations, huge classes) it was also very rewarding. The group recommended that the experience recur in future years but it was also thought that twinning teachers would be more beneficial than dropping into different classes.

The North Point group was shown how to negotiate the taxi shuttle service that operates between the Loreto gates and North Point gates. It costs 60 rupees for the trip ($1.20)

At North Point, the younger children sang songs to the volunteers and talked with them in small groups. This bed-time routine was a delightful experience.